If there is a shrine for authentic Mexican cuisine, then it's Mexican Radio in Hudson. Co-owners Lori Selden and Mark Young also have a Manhattan location (in the Nolita neighborhood), where they serve up great margaritas. You can expect more than a scintillating margarita, however, in Hudson.

I love the atmosphere of this place. Its location alone on Warren Street, or antique row, is a draw if you like to hunt for treasures. Grand Mission doors open into a two-story restaurant warmed with terra cotta-washed walls and wrought iron balcony railings. Punched tin sconces partnered with large crosses adorn the walls, along with altars acting as candles holders. Sleek black tables are set with some of the same red prayer candles in tall glasses. Latin rhythms fill the air and you quickly find yourself tapping your toes to the beat.

The mood is set, but it's even better with a margarita, which run the gamut at Mexican Radio. Try a Transistor, the house recipe with triple sec, or the Code Talker, which is an ultra-smooth concoction of tequila, Citronge and Grand Marnier. Sangria, Radio lemonade, one of several cerveza, or jarritos (Mexican sodas) are also available.

We enthusiastically reviewed the menu that includes Mexican, Tex-Mex and numerous vegetarian possibilities. Upon a suggestion from our waiter, we ordered an appetizer to get started. Throughout our dining experience, we felt well attended to and enjoyed professional and courteous service.

Jazzed-up fondue tasty

We started with a plate of Mexican Radio's award-winning nachos ($7.95) -- a comforting plate of corn tortillas topped with black rather than pinto beans, tons of melted cheese, spicy guajillo pepper sauce and crema. Rajas en cervesa ($8.95) was strikingly appealing as a jazzed-up fondue with Dos Equis, onions and poblano peppers. The restaurant's homemade black bean soup and a dish of chorizo simmered in red wine and beer ($9.95) also sounded worthy of a try.

Salads include a spicy taco version with generous amounts of tomatoes, peppers, avocado and zesty chipotle ranch dressing ($9.95) or further adorned with veggies, chicken or beef ($12,95), or with grilled shrimp ($14.95). Either way, they're tasty and represent a good value. If you want to be more adventurous, try the nopalitos ($8.95), prepared with grilled cactus, apple, jicama, pumpkin seeds, aged cheese and tequila vinaigrette.

Traditional huevos rancheros ($10.95) top the list for entrees any time of the day. You may also want to try one of many burritos or enchiladas from the long list. I decided instead on the chile rellenos. You can order one fat-stuffed egg-battered delight ($10.95) as an appetizer, or two with rice and beans ($14.95) as an entree. I adored the fabulously fresh tomato-jalapeno sauce and abundance of melted cheese that seemed to emerge nonstop from the smoky roasted peppers.

A shrimp fajita ($18.95) special was another success, served as a sizzling plate of shrimp intermixed with loads of sauteed zucchini and yellow squash, and warm flour tortillas. The sides of rice and beans, and the guacamole were also excellent.

Mexican Radio has earned accolades for its flan ($5), and it's no wonder. The custard is insanely smooth and with just the right proportion of a caramelized sugar crust that melts with each bite. Enjoy a flan with one of several Mexican-style, jazzed-up coffees and soon you may be doing more than just tapping your toes to the music.

The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Lori Pierce Abendschein is a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America and a member of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs.

DINING

MEXICAN RADIO

**** (Very good)

537 Warren St., Hudson; 1-518-828-7770; Mexican cuisine; serving lunch and dinner daily, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; lunch special served Monday-Friday until 3:30 p.m.; children may be accommodated; reservations suggested for parties of four or more; all major credit cards accepted.

Entree price range -- $6.95-$18.95.

Directions -- Take Route 9 north to Rhinebeck; Route 9G north to Hudson. In Hudson, make a right onto Warren Street. Mexican radio is about three blocks on the right. Parking is street side.

Rating breakdown